Your KitchenAid dishwasher is an essential appliance in your kitchen, helping you keep your dishes sparkling clean with ease. However, like any machine, it may encounter issues from time to time. When error codes appear on the display, it can be confusing. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll unravel the mystery behind KitchenAid dishwasher error codes, explain their meanings, and provide practical steps to troubleshoot and resolve these errors effectively.
| Error Code | Condition | How-to help |
| 1-1 or F1E1 | Stuck relay on the electronic control board | Shut off power to the dishwasher for 5 minutes. If the code resumes when you restore power, check the wiring connected to the control board for damage and repair any broken wires. Measure the resistance through all components connected to the control board using the tech sheet as a guide. You can find the tech sheet behind the bottom front toe panel of the dishwasher. Replace any defective components. If the wiring and components are okay, replace the electronic control board. |
| 1-2 or F1E2 | Damaged or corrupted memory on control board. Incompatible software components inside microprocessor., | Shut off power to the dishwasher for 5 minutes. If the code resumes when you restore power, replace the electronic control board. |
| 2-1 or F2E1 | Stuck button on the user interface control | Check all buttons on the user interface control for a response. If one or more of the buttons don’t work, unplug the dishwasher to disconnect electrical power and disconnect the user interface control wire harness. Reassemble the door with the user interface wire harness disconnected, but don’t close the door. Plug in the dishwasher and wait at least 7 seconds for the electronic control board to power up completely. Then close the door. If the electronic control no longer detects stuck buttons with the user interface wire harness unplugged, it will start the drain pump. If the drain pump runs, replace the user interface control. If the drain pump doesn’t run, then replace the electronic control board because it still detects stuck buttons with the user interface control unplugged. |
| 2-2 or F2E2 | User interface control can’t communicate with electronic control board | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Check the wiring between the user interface control and the electronic control board. If the wires and connections are okay, replace the user interface control board. If the problem persists, replace the electronic control board. |
| 3-1 or F3E1 | Thermistor/OWI sensor failure (The thermistor is the water temperature sensor, the OWI sensor is the Optical Water Indicator that detects the amount of debris in the water.) | Unplug the dishwasher to disconnect electrical power and then check the wiring between the electronic control board and the thermistor/OWI sensor. Repair or replace the wire harness if broken. If you find the wiring undamaged, replace the thermistor/OWI sensor. |
| 3-2 or F3E2 | Shorted thermistor/OWI sensor | Unplug the dishwasher to disconnect electrical power and then check the wiring between the electronic control board and the thermistor/OWI sensor. Repair or replace the wire harness if broken. If you find the wiring undamaged, replace the thermistor/OWI sensor. |
| 3-3 or F3E3 | OWI failed to calibrate or the drain hose check valve failed, allowing dirty water to backflow into the dishwasher | Disconnect the dishwasher drain hose connection from the air gap or the garbage disposal if you have no air gap. Pour water through the drain hose to see if water backs up into the dishwasher tub. If so, replace the portion of the drain hose that connects to the drain pump because the check valve in that hose failed. If water doesn’t back up into the dishwasher through the drain hose, reconnect the hose and run the Service Diagnostics Test according to the instructions in the tech sheet. You should see low soil level indicated during the OWI test in the diagnostic mode. If you see high soil level during the OWI test, unplug the dishwasher and clean the OWI sensor. Reassemble the dishwasher and plug the dishwasher back in to restore electrical power. Run the diagnostic test cycle so the electronic control board will calibrate the OWI sensor on the next cycle. Run a normal wash cycle. If you still see the error code, replace the thermistor/OWI sensor. |
| 4-4 or F4E4 | Communication error between the electronic control board and the circulation pump motor | Unplug the dishwasher to disconnect electrical power. Check the circulation pump wire harness and reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wiring connections are okay, replace the circulation pump and motor assembly. If the problem continues, replace the electronic control board. |
| 5-1 or F5E1 | Door switch failure | This code appears if you don’t close the door within 4 seconds of pressing the Start/Resume button, or if the door latch assembly is broken. When starting a cycle, close the door within 4 seconds after pressing Start/Resume. If you can’t start the cycle and the code continues, then the door switch could be defective. Unplug the dishwasher to disconnect electrical power. Disassemble the door and check the door switch wire harness. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness is okay, replace the door latch assembly. |
| 5-2 or F5E2 | Control detects door not opening | The electronic control board expects to see the door open between cycles or the dishwasher won’t start the next time you try to start a new cycle. If you didn’t open the door between cycles, cancel the cycle. Open and shut the door, and then start a new cycle. If the cycle still won’t start, then the door switch could be defective. Unplug the dishwasher, then plug it back in to simulate the door opening. If the cycle starts, replace the door latch assembly because the door switch isn’t detecting the door opening. |
| 6-1 or F6E1 | Won’t fill | Check for an item stuck under the overfill float and remove it. If the overfill float sticks in the “up” position the dishwasher won’t fill. Unplug the dishwasher to disconnect electrical power and shut the water supply valve. Disconnect the water supply line from the water inlet valve and check the water inlet valve screen for clogs. Replace the water valve if you find the screen clogged because debris from the clog can get into the valve body, causing the valve to stick open and possibly flood your kitchen. If the screen is clear, place the end of the water supply line in a shallow pan and briefly open the water supply valve to see if water flows from the supply line. If water doesn’t flow, have a plumber repair the water supply to your dishwasher. If the water flows okay, check the wiring connections on the water inlet valve and reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wires are okay, you may need to replace the water inlet valve or the electronic control board. |
| 6-2 or F6E2 | Water inlet valve failure | Unplug the dishwasher to disconnect electrical power. Remove the bottom front access panel and toe panel. Check the wire harness connections on the water inlet valve. Reconnect any loose wires. Replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connections are okay, check the resistance of the water inlet valve using a multimeter. You should measure around 1,400 ohms of resistance through the water inlet valve. If you measure infinite resistance, replace the water inlet valve. If the problem continues, replace the electronic control board. |
| 6-3 or F6E3 | Suds or air are in the water pump | Check for sudsy water. If you see excessive suds, try to drain the dishwasher by cancelling the cycle. The drain pump will run for 3 minutes. If the drain pump can’t drain the sudsy water, drain the water by hand or use a wet/dry shop vacuum to remove the water. Check the detergent dispenser and replace if it’s damaged. Use only dishwasher detergent in the dishwasher. Using regular dish soap in the dishwasher causes excessive suds. If you don’t see excessive suds, check the water fill level in the tub because low water level causes air in the pump. The water level should just touch the bottom of the overfill float mushroom. If you find the water level too low, check for bowls or containers that flipped over during the cycle that could be holding water. Load items so they don’t flip over during the cycle and cause low water level. If you didn’t find bowls or containers flipped over and holding water, then a defective water inlet valve could cause the low water level. Unplug the dishwasher to disconnect electrical power and close the water supply valve. Disconnect the water supply line from the water inlet valve and check the water inlet valve screen for clogs. Replace the water valve if you find the screen clogged because debris from the clog can get into the valve body, causing the valve to stick open and possibly flood your kitchen. If the screen is clear, place the end of the water supply line in a shallow pan and briefly open the water supply valve to see if the water flows from the supply line. If water doesn’t flow, have a plumber repair the water supply to your dishwasher. If the water flows okay, check the wiring connections on the water inlet valve and reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wires are okay, you may need to replace the water inlet valve. |
| 6-4 or F6E4 | The float switch is open | Check the overfill float switch to see if it’s stuck or if an item is stuck under it. Check if the inlet water fill valve is properly shutting off the water supply when the dishwasher is off. |
| 6-6 or F6E6 | Incoming water is too cold | Use an accurate thermometer to check the water temperature. If it’s lower than 110 degrees F, check your water heater. water heater. If the water temperature is normal (110 to 120 degrees F), replace the thermistor/OWI or the electronic control board. Refer to the tech sheet for your dishwasher for a diagnostic test for the thermistor. |
| 7-1 or F7E1 | Heating element doesn’t work | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Inspect the heating element and replace it if it’s visibly damaged. If not, check the wiring to the heating element. If the wiring is intact, replace the heating element. |
| 7-2 or F7E2 | Heating element won’t shut off | Shut off power to the dishwasher for 5 minutes. If the code resumes when you restore power, replace the electronic control board. |
| 8-1 or F8E1 | Slow drain | Shut off power to the dishwasher and then shut off water. Check the drain path for an obstruction. If the drain path is clear, check the wiring on the drain pump. If the wiring is intact, replace the drain pump. |
| 8-2 or F8E2 | Drain pump electrical problem | Shut off power to the dishwasher and then shut off water. Check the wiring on the drain pump. If the wiring is intact, replace the drain pump. |
| 9-1 or F9E1 | Electronic control board can’t detect the position of the diverter disc | The diverter motor positions the disc that directs the water through the lower spray arm or the upper spray arm. The diverter motor also monitors the position of the diverter disc and sends position signals to the electronic control board. Unplug the dishwasher to disconnect power and check the wiring going to the diverter motor. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wiring is intact, replace the diverter motor because it isn’t sending position signals to the electronic control board. |
| 9-2 or F9E2 | Diverter motor is stuck on | The diverter relay on the electronic control board is defective. Unplug the dishwasher to disconnect electrical power and replace the electronic control board. |
| 9-3 or F9E3 | Diverter disc is missing | Remove the dishracks and the lower spray arm. Pull out the TurboZone manifold and the feed tube. Remove the pump outlet and check the diverter disc. Replace the disc if it’s broken or missing. |
| 9-4 or F9E4 | Lower spray arm error | Check for obstructions blocking the lower spray arm from turning. Shut off power to the dishwasher and check the wiring connections on the lower spray arm motor. If the wiring is intact, replace the lower spray arm motor. |
| 10-1 or FAE1 | Detergent dispenser failure | Unplug the dishwasher to disconnect electrical power. Remove the outer door panel and check the wiring connections between the electronic control board and the detergent dispenser. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wiring is intact, replace the detergent dispenser. |
| 10-2 or FAE2 | Vent wax motor electrical problem | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Check the wiring in the vent wax motor circuit. If the wiring is intact, replace the vent wax motor. |
| 10-3 or FAE3 | Drying fan failure | Unplug the dishwasher to disconnect electrical power. Check the wiring between the electronic control board and the drying fan. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wiring is intact, replace the drying fan. |
Common KitchenAid Dishwasher Error Codes
Let’s delve into some common error codes you might encounter on your KitchenAid dishwasher:
E1: Water Inlet Issue
The E1 error indicates a problem with the water inlet, potentially due to water supply or valve issues.
E2: Heating Element Error
Error E2 points to a heating element problem, which affects water temperature during cycles.
E3: Draining Problem
The E3 code signifies a draining issue, often caused by blockages or pump malfunctions.
E4: Door Lock Issue
Error E4 relates to problems with the door lock mechanism, which may prevent the dishwasher from starting.
E5: Detergent Dispenser Error
The E5 error suggests an issue with the detergent dispenser, affecting the distribution of detergent during cycles.
Troubleshooting KitchenAid Dishwasher Error Codes
Here are step-by-step solutions to troubleshoot and resolve common error codes:
Step-by-Step Solutions for Each Error Code
- E1: Check the water supply and inlet valve for any obstructions or malfunctions.
- E2: Inspect the heating element for damage or connectivity issues; replace if necessary.
- E3: Clear any debris or blockages from the drain pump and ensure proper pump function.
- E4: Examine the door lock mechanism and latch for misalignments or defects; repair or replace as needed.
- E5: Investigate the detergent dispenser for any clogs or defects; clean or replace if required.
Tips for Error Prevention and Maintenance
- Regularly clean the dishwasher’s interior, including filters and spray arms, to prevent clogs and malfunctions.
- Use high-quality detergents and follow manufacturer recommendations for optimal performance.
- Keep an eye on water supply and drainage connections to prevent potential issues.
- Conduct routine inspections of heating elements, door locks, and dispensers to identify and address problems early.
Conclusion
Encountering KitchenAid dishwasher error codes need not be a daunting experience. By understanding the meaning of these codes and following the provided troubleshooting steps, you can efficiently address and rectify issues, ensuring your dishwasher continues to provide efficient and effective cleaning results.